Nine Arch Bridge, Sri Lanka
For those of you who have been to Ella, Sri Lanka in 2023 may have heard of the bee attack at 9 Arch Bridge in all the tabloids. I was there. This is my story.
I lie there, calmly looking at geckos swirling around on the ceiling wishing for the night to pass peacefully, just then my stomach cramped to ridiculous levels, my mouth watered and I rushed to the bathroom for the umpteenth time that night. With my head resting on my hands I wondered “when is this going to pass” and “what the bloody ‘ell got those bees so worked up”. It might have been me.
Ella Bridge
The Ella Bridge, or ‘Nine Arch Bridge’ as it is humbly referred to, is a magnificent view to behold, surrounded by tea fields and lush vegetation. Though it’s worth coming to at the right times as it attracts a daily swathe of tourists, ambling around for the next old train to come chugging by for that ultimate photo. On every train tourists are also precariously hanging out of every entrance for selfie moments, an act that has resulted in over 200 deaths globally* (see photos below).
If you know me at all, you will know that I love a pretty natural surrounding, though you would also know that I am adverse to mass tourism. So after a few photo opportunities of my own I have merely been using the bridge as a pretty passage to and fro my hikes on the now famous ‘Peko Trail’. This was one of those moments after a very tiring hike, I limped across the bridge on the railway tracks watching that I don’t trip over the ballasts like a ‘toon. I then happened to notice an attractive young couple carrying expensive looking camera equipment, ‘influencers?’ I wondered. The gentleman broke my thoughts as he started yelling “don’t do that” in increased volume. After noticing the lady waving her arms about her, it didn’t take long to realise what was going on, with bees the size of falafel swarming around me. Without a moments hesitation my instinct was to, RUN.
The bees
Immediately I slipped like the ‘toon I was hoping not to be, as out of nowhere the number of bees intensified to a number that would’ve caused ‘Baloo’ from the Jungle Book to run for the closest river, I wish I had such luxury. Instead I ran to a group of people huddled around a smoking pot, “Yes” I thought, “make them drowsy.”. But something was dreadfully wrong, they weren’t calming down at all! Instead they seemed to be solely stinging me! Time and time again no matter how much smoke I waved over, as if they had some kind of personal vendetta.
Screenshot with thanks from the Buddymoon. I was on the one in the green bag, slipped!
Doctor? What doctor?
Normally when travelling across Asia, It’s not the best experience to be surrounded by eager drivers pulling you over for your custom, but I was actually relishing for that very thought… Zero! Absolutely nothing at the busiest hot spot in town. The last thing I wanted to do right now was to hike home, so I signalled and waved frantically to get a tuk tuk to come my way. The pharmacy was closed. There is no doctor in town. So I patiently waited in the queue at the local shop to buy my little bottle of anti-septic as my body pulsated with sharp stinging sensations all over. Holding back the urge to push aside customers while screeching “it’s an emergency”. But my Britishness took priority, I waited, patiently.
By the time I washed and dowsed myself in a pleasant smelling anti-septic fury, I found a load more stingers that had been left on my skin, one directly on my forehead that I accidentally squeezed when trying to gently pull it out. Then proceeded a long feverish night of rest, drinking water and puking my guts out, but this gave me time to think. What an earth got those bees so buzzed off? At first I thought I had accidentally kicked a mound as I slipped like a ‘toon on the tracks. But it turns out that they can get particularly aggressive if drones fly around, just as well being the most photographed area of Sri Lanka.
Okay, so I gladly wasn’t the cause but what an insane story to tell from travelling Sri Lanka, along with a small scar from a bee on my arm to prove it. And lucky enough to be left with just one small scar. Sometimes you have to go through the worst to come out with rich (if bizarre) experiences to last a lifetime.
Screenshot with thanks from the Buddymoon. Dan stood his ground instead of running, though he did eventually.
A little more about Ella, Sri Lanka
I am always shocked to keep hearing how everyone who comes through Ella, only ever stays for just a day or two. A visit to Nine Arch Bridge followed by a hike up Ella Mountain if they’re up for it, and then they’re off! I stayed for over 2 months, Ella became one of my favourite places in Sri Lanka and I still think of it fondly today. Picture this- working your standard day with a decent cuppa, but with added views across the valley, and an endless opportunity of hikes and ambling to break up your day.
Here’s more of what you could be experiencing if you stay just a few more days:
- Pekoe trails. The now famous 300km Pekoe trail runs right through Ella. I completed section 12 to 16 which I promise to write more on soon.
- Amba Estate is considered to be one of the best tea plantations to visit. At the time I tried a tea that goes for over £70 in Fortnum and Mason, but in Sri Lanka, it was the price of a local meal.
- NilDiya Pokuna is a clear blue water cave to dip and swim into. A gorgeous surreal experience.
- I climbed Ella Rock at least once a week while I was there, an excuse great exercise but with a stupendous view to be rewarded by. One of my favourites for sure! TIP: Once you’re at the top, keep walking the trail through the woods for more great views.
- There are many, and I mean many waterfalls dotted about all over Ella. Keep them clean and don’t bother with selfies on the edge, there have been a number of casualties because of this.
- I recommend the easy going and family run Idyll Homestay or Waterfalls Homestay for views of Ella gap during your stay, meaning a view of both Small Rawana waterfall and Little Adam’s peak . Both stays are very well connected with plenty of local information. Don’t forget to mention me while you’re there 🙂
Further reading
Thanks to Leanne and Dan of The Buddymoon for being cool sports. Check out their video blogs here.
Pada Yatra. Soon I will be writing on my incredible random experiences of the pilgrim trail, for now though, you can check out my photography here:
Keep being inspired by nature and other worldly cultures.
Thanks for reading. Sam Rios.
The view from Little Adam’s peak
